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HOW TO DEAL WITH LEMONGRASS

Lemongrass is so unique; there is no substitute. These long, pale, green-yellow stalks- the bottom 5 to 6 inches of which is used in recipes- bring a tart note to the balance of flavors that's one of Thai cooking's unique calling cards. Its flavor is lemony, but not quite in the same way as regular lemon, and you just can't get that flavor from any other ingredient. Luckily, nowadays you can get lemongrass in the fresh herbs section of your supermarket, thanks to increased interest in Southeast Asian cuisines. Peel off the dry outer leaves around the root, and then prepare according to the recipe. Keep lemongrass in your refrigerator, loosely wrapped, for no more than a couple of weeks.

Adapted from Martin Yan's Asian Favorites (Ten Speed Press).
Copyright © 2006 Yan Can Cook Group.