THE WOK

The single most important tool of the Chinese chef is the wok. The wok, a concave bowl-shaped pan, is the most functional all-around cooking utensil. The wok can take the place of a dozen pots and pans, since almost any cooking method can be done in it from stir-frying to steaming.

Woks come in a variety of sizes and are made from a number of different materials. You can find some as small as 9 inches in diameter or as large as 24 inches for restaurants. Round or flat-bottomed woks can be made from spun carbon steel, stainless steel, aluminum and stainless steel (with or without a non-stick surface). The traditional round-bottomed woks can be used with a ring stand, which sits on a gas burner. Flat-bottomed woks are very efficient when used on an electric burner because of the increased surface contact with the heating element.

The key to successful wok cooking is the proper care of the wok. To season a new spun carbon steel wok, you should first wash it thoroughly with hot, soapy water to remove any protective coating applied at the factory. Dry the wok thoroughly, rub some vegetable oil with a paper towel evenly into the cooking surface, and gently heat the wok while continuously rubbing the surface with the paper towel (changing the towel as necessary). Continue this procedure until the wok begins to darken. This builds the first layer of a "seasoned" surface and will prevent food from sticking. To clean the wok, wash with hot water (with very little or no soap), dry well, and rub in a little fresh oil if it is not used daily.