SINGAPOREAN CHICKEN NOODLE SOUP

Elder Singaporeans tell about the man selling spicy chicken noodle soup-locals call soto ayam-who used to come around in the evening with his portable stall and wooden clappers back in the good ol' days. The sound of the clappers and brought people out to the street, carrying their bowls to get a steaming bowl of soup.

Makes: 4 servings

Ingredients:

Spice Paste
2 stalks lemongrass
6 cloves garlic
5 walnut-size shallots
2 slices ginger, each the size of a quarter
16 blanched almonds
1/4 cup water

4 chicken legs
2 chicken thighs
6 cups water
2 tablespoons cooking oil
1 tablespoon ground coriander
2 teaspoons chili garlic sauce
1 teaspoon galangal powder (optional)
1 teaspoon turmeric powder

3 tablespoons soy sauce
1 package (12 oz.) fresh Chinese egg noodles
2 cups bean sprouts
4 hard-cooked eggs, shelled and halved
Cilantro sprigs
Sliced fresh red or green jalapeÑo chili

Getting Ready:

  1. Thinly slice bottom 6 inches of lemongrass. Place in a blender with remaining spice paste ingredients and process, scraping down sides of blender, until smooth.

Cooking:

  1. Place chicken and water in a large pot and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low, partially over, and simmer for 45 minutes.
  2. Meanwhile, place a wok over medium-low heat until hot. Add oil, swirling to coat sides. Add spice paste and cook, stirring, until fragrant and oil begins to separate out from spice paste, about 10 minutes. Add coriander, galangal, turmeric, and chili garlic sauce; cook for 1 minute. Reserve.
  3. Add reserved spice paste to pot with chicken; simmer until chicken is no longer pink near the bone, about 20 minutes longer. Lift out chicken. When it is cool enough to handle, remove and discard skin and bones; shred meat.
  4. Pour broth through a strainer, pressing on solids; discard solids and return broth to the pan. Skim fat from broth and add soy sauce; heat to simmering.
  5. In a large pot of boiling water, cook noodles according to package directions; drain, rinse, and drain again. Divide noodles, chicken, and bean sprouts among 4 individual bowls. Pour broth over noodles. Garnish each serving with eggs, cilantro, and chilies.

Adapted from Feast by Martin Yan (James Connelly, Bay Books). Copyright © Yan Can Cook Group, 2005.